our Uruguay getaway!

bu bu buquebus!

For those of you who are familiar with us Zonies, Uruguay is to Argentina, like California is to Arizona. When the weather in Argentina becomes too hot to bear all the porteños head west to Punta Del Este and other close beach destinations. Although the big summer wave doesn’t start for another month or so, Jessica and I saw Punta Del Este as a must see before our time here in Argentina comes to an end. My mom and sister arrived in Buenos Aires on December first, so we saw their visit as a perfect reason to travel the five hours to Punta Del Este.

On Thursday morning of last week we headed to the Buquebus station at the early hour of 8:00am. As we were running a bit late I sat in the front seat of the taxi with my fingers crossed, hoping the boat would not leave without us. Arriving at the station I was relieved to find everyone else looking as stressed as I felt. After an easy check-in through customs we boarded the boat, which was already packed with people. Therefore, Jessica and my mom were stuck in the back corner of the boat while Kacy and I scavenged for two random single seats. (We made a mental note to arrive early on our return ride!) Around 30 minutes after our departure time we set off into the Rio de la Plata. Now- I spent four months on a boat that traveled all around the world, and even I wasn’t prepared for what was coming. I figured being on the river would make for a smooth ride- and boy was I wrong! It wasn’t long before the bathrooms were filled with those who were getting sick, and the walkways were filled with those who couldn’t quite make it to the bathroom in time! The rollercoaster ride lasted a couple of hours and I think I can speak on everyone’s behalf when I say it was a relief when we ported in Montevideo. Next we loaded ourselves onto the Buquebues charter bus and for the next three hours we all relaxed, read our books, and let our stomachs settle themselves. We arrived at our hotel (Il Belvedere) around 16:00 and checked into our adorable three-bedroom cabin. After doing a little unpacking we headed to the main cabin for some lunch. The hotel fixed us up some pizzas and salads to share. After quenching our hunger we relaxed inside the cabin because the weather outside was rather chilly and a bit windy! We were all pooped from our long journey overseas and rested up before dinner downtown. We headed to the Peninsula area and found ourselves at the Yacht Club Uruguayo. This small, old-fashioned eatery served up some excellent seafood, offered an excellent view of the ocean, and played soft Christmas music in the background that really set the mood. We were all very satisfied with our meals and even saved room for a delicious caramelized crepe dessert.

On our next day in Punta Del Este we took a taxi up to La Barra, a beach town located 10 or so minutes north of our hotel. We started our day off with lunch at REX diner where we had our first taste of ‘chivito’, a national Uruguayan dish. Chivito is a sandwich-style burger that usually consists of churasco beef, bacon, mayonnaise, egg, and tomato. Paired with a local Patricia beer, REX served up an excellent (yet very pricy) lunch. Afterwards, we headed down to the beach where we enjoyed the rest of the sunny afternoon. Around 19:00 we headed back up to the main road where we sat on the beach terrace of Flo Café and drank a pitcher of Clerico (or as we like to call it: Sangria). We had tried having lunch at Flo Café earlier in the day but found it didn’t upon until the afternoon. Therefore, we unfortunately don’t have any information on their food! Their Clerico however was one of the best Sangria’s I’ve ever had and they even brought out cute little blankets for us once the terrace started to get a bit chilly. After our afternoon cocktail we decided we would walk back to our hotel. Unfortunately I’m a little bad at determining distances and what I thought was a mile or two walk actually ended up being a six-mile walk! Even though our walk lasted longer than we had planned, none of us minded because of the beautiful beach sunset we were able to watch as walked. After we arrived back at our cabin we took turns showering for dinner. This night we headed back to the peninsula for dinner, and had a delicious Italian dinner at Restaurante Più. .Kacy and I decided to go for the set meal of the day (which cost around U$D 30) that came with bruschetta or pizza, a main course of either chicken or pasta, and then a dessert. I think this was one of Kacy’s favorite meals of the trip, and I would have to agree that this authentic Italian joint was rather delicious. We were all pooped after our dinner that ended around 1:00am and headed back to the hotel.

Day three of our trip we took a cab up to José Ignacio, a small fishing town 30 minutes north of downtown Punta Del Este. José Ignacio is a destination that becomes more and more popular with each year. Once just a small fishing village, José Ignacio is now considered an exclusive retreat where celebrities and those alike come to enjoy the beautiful beaches and impressive seafood restaurants in privacy. We headed to Casa Suaya, a quiet boutique hotel built by Brazilian-born Adolfo Suaya, the man who also built the Geisha House and the Lodge in Hollywood. Adolfo decided to build this estancia on four acres of Uruguayan grassland with access to a private beach just outside of downtown José Ignacio. This 12-bedroom antique style dwelling was the perfect location for our afternoon massages that took place in an outdoor hut on the sand. The day would have been perfect if only the weather had cooperated. We were cursed with cold and windy once again, and had to move the last two massages indoors. The hotel staff on the other hand could not have been better. While the four of us took turns getting our massages, the other three of us sat poolside for a bit, and then moved into their adorable lounge/bar located right off the pool. The hotel was busy all day setting up for a Uruguayan wedding that was taking place that night, and didn’t seem to mind our presence a single bit. Instead they left us entertained with their music, wonderful food, and energetic spirits. After our massages the hotel even set us up with a wonderful room for us to shower and get ready in. This beautiful room came equipped with everything and even had a beautiful view of the ocean. After getting ready and sneaking a peak at the wedding, we took a walk along the beach towards town. Again we witnessed an amazing Uruguayan sunset and made it to the restaurant right as the sun went down (an astonishing hour of 9:30!). La Huella was our dinner destination this night. Located right on the sandy beach in a little shabby chic shack, La Huella is best known for its fresh seafood and ‘see and be seen’ afternoon crowd. Dinner was a delicious assortment of the catch of the day and mouthwatering lamb ribs. The restaurant was buzzing from the minute we got there, and seemed to only get more crowded as the night went on. La Huella’s food was delightful and they had an ambiance that is pretty unbeatable. A great way to spend our last meal in Punta!

The next morning we woke up to some sunshine, which was very exciting. We relaxed by the pool and made one last effort at leaving with a little tan. Unfortunately clouds rolled in once again and we headed upstairs for a little lunch. We got our chivito fix and then headed back to our cabin to pack up. Around 5 in the afternoon we headed back to town to catch our Buquebus and then it was off to Montevideo. I was serious when I said we would make it early to the boat the next time and early we were (3 hours!). The wait paid off however and we got four seats together in the front of the boat. The ride back was much smoother than our ride there, and we made it safely back to Buenos Aires that night. Our time in Punta Del Este was really great despite a couple of annoyances: taxis, hotels, and everything being closed! I have placed a couple of tips below for you future travelers out there! Make your trip to Punta an enjoyable one J

PUNTA DEL ESTE TRAVEL TIPS:

1) Take advantage of an ATM when you see one (they are far and few between!)

2) Cabs are ridiculous: go there knowing they are going to rip you off and there is nothing you can do about it!

3) Always order local Uruguayan wine (Argentinean wines are seriously marked up)

4) Buquebus is a great way to get there but bring some Dramamine and get there early to get a good seat in the front

5) If you don’t want to run the risk of everything being closed… don’t go as early as we did!

Puppy Time!

Even though this blog is based solely around our Argentina adventures, Karlyn and I have decided to keep it going when we are in the United States. It will detail our experiences as we go from unemployed to (hopefully) employed and our feedback on becoming new members of the “real world”. As for right now, Karlyn and I are both moving back to Phoenix temporarily to figure out our master plans. It’s not an easy task and we are taking all that we have learned here with us to help us find that perfect career path.

As for now, there is some exciting news. Karlyn and I are both welcoming new members to our family in this upcoming New Year. As for me, I am getting a mini golden doodle. After much deliberation and friendly feedback, I have decided to name her Penny Lane. Picture featured above of the new family member. She will be arriving in Phoenix on January 2 and already the Beatles “Penny Lane” song has been stuck in our heads for days (even with the constant Christmas music). Karlyn is still on the hunt for her puppy. She is looking for a ruby male Cavalier King Charles. It is a task in itself, considering that rubies are a rare color to find. She should be making her selection very soon and both are puppies are sure to be great friends. We’re hoping to have two cute lovers on our hands.

We have gone into serious mother mode now that we know we have these little pups on the way. In our free time, Karlyn and I are reading everything and anything we can get our hands on about puppy training. We are doing our best to educate ourselves on all the essentials of dog care, like dog insurance, commands, crate care, etc. We know how huge a responsibility this all is and we are not taking it lightly. I’m pretty sure these babies will have two of the most neurotic parents out there, but they will hopefully be expertly trained as a result.

Getting Into the Holiday Spirit!

First, I would like to apologize to our viewers that we have not been providing updates on our adventures. These last few weeks seem like a whirlwind and Karlyn and I continually find ourselves stating, “You mean it was that long ago?” Our time has flown by and now that all the guest have come and gone we find ourselves with only 12 days left in this amazing country. With a country so bountiful, it’s hard to even begin to choose how to spend our time or whom we will share it with. We have been here for over three and half months and it seems like just yesterday we arrived in this foreign city.

Almost four months here and I can say that we are pretty familiar with our surroundings. Each time we have visitors I always ask them for their impressions on Buenos Aires. They have each been completely different, so it’s hard to summarize. However, Karlyn’s mom commented over a hearty meal at La Cabrera that her major reaction was how it seems like we are locals here. We aren’t exactly locals yet, but we really have created a world for ourselves here. We have our favorite restaurants, bars, activities, stores, parks, hotels, and so much more. We know the people who work at our favorite restaurants and have a cozy little community as expats. It’s amazing to see how we have come to make a big city feel small just after this short period of time. Not to say that we have seen everythingwhatsoever, but in terms of what we choose for our daily habits it is a pretty small community.

With most trips, one gets anxious for their stateside return. This time I feel like it is anything but that. The heat has just kicked in and all the summer dresses are starting to pop up on the street. People are anxiously speaking of upcoming trips to Uruguay and Brazil. All the flowers are in full bloom. There are enough pregnant ladies to start a small army. It’s hard not to remark, “If only I had more time….” Karlyn and I are trying to avoid that comment because we really have made the most of our time here. Even though it wouldn’t be bad to have a few more months left to squeeze some more things in.

On that note, I really think Buenos Aires needs a better marketing ploy because Argentina is on par with any European country. I think it’s a must see country that is sadly often overlooked when it comes to traveling. However, I think that is changing a lot now. People are opting for South America more often now, especially with the current economic downturn. People always say you must do this or that in Europe….blah blah blah, but Buenos Aires could easily compare to any of these cities. Don’t get me wrong, I love Europe. I just think people are seriously missing out by not ever traveling to South America. Overall, that has been my main impression after traveling to Brazil, Uruguay, and all over Argentina and yet, that’s just a start to South America. I don’t feel like I even have the ability to say that I feel like I am familiar with South America now because there’s still so much that remains unknown. This has been especially true for Brazil and Argentina, places like Bariloche, Salta, Florianopolis, San Paolo that linger on our list of places to visit. I encourage any one who reads this to make the effort to make the journey to South America. It’s a shame to miss it- not just for the cities, but also for the rich culture throughout.

My only complaint is that it hasn’t started to feel like Christmas yet (and that’s coming from a girl from Arizona, which might be a little humorous). It’s not the weather though. It’s much more than that. We have started to see the sure signs of the Christmas season here- stores popping up all over town with innumerable Christmas decorations, wreaths on doors, occasional lights here and there, trees in various commercial centers, and the recurrent inquisition about how we will spend the holidays. Even with all that, the feeling hasn’t sunk in- perhaps our internal clocks are off here. We’ve been trying to encourage that holiday spirit with non-stop Christmas music and by daily the door on the chocolate advent calendar my mom sent me, but it just doesn’t suffice. Let’s just say we are both looking forward to being bombarded by the heavy commercialism that is Christmas in the United States to hopefully trigger that fuzzy holiday spirit in action.

It is so unusual because even for Thanksgiving it was fine- maybe because for this holiday all you need are good friends, turkey, and wine to keep the spirit alive (although we did dearly miss our absent family members and friends). Thanksgiving turned out to be a total success and as American as you can get here in Argentina. We ended up piling about eight people into a booth and feasting on an enormous, tasty Thanksgiving meal. I, of course, made everyone keep the tradition alive and propose a toast, which is all too common in my family (as many of my friends know a little to well as they are forced to make an impromptu speech in front of all present at my birthday parties). It really couldn’t have been a better Thanksgiving, even being thousands of miles away.

With or without the Christmas spirit, we now have our last few days strategically planned. Today over lunch we painstakingly selected our favorites for meals and whom we would share them with. Each day is now arranged with an activity and each meal is planned accordingly. Sounds a little OCD, but entirely necessary when you are in count down mode. I’ll let Karlyn update you on this itinerary since she has come to be the perfect the travel agent with all the trips we have done! And even with this immense schedule of ours, we’ll make sure to update on our final days (so sad).

Buzios Photos

at the copa... copacabana!

Where to begin. Our time in Brazil was absolutely incredible. We arrived in Rio de Janeiro Wednesday night after a 3.5-hour plane ride from Buenos Aires. After checking into our hotel in Copacabana (Copacabana Praia Hotel) we ventured a couple of blocks to the Fasano Hotel. Being big fans of Philippe Starck's Buenos Aires masterpiece, the Faena Hotel, we knew this was a destination we could not miss. Sinking ourselves into the low stools at the chic white bar just off the lobby, Jessica and I observed the company around us and were in awe at the impressively dressed men and women. We ordered a couple bar specialty cocktails and shared two delicious salads. Because of the weeknight, the scene died down rather early, and Jessica and I headed back for a good nights rest.

Thursday Jessica and I devoted our time to some sight seeing. We hired a driver from our hotel and headed first to Christ the Redeemer. Even though this was my second time visiting the 130-foot statue that sits 1200 feet atop the Corcovado Mountain, I was still taken aback by the incredible view from this standpoint. Better known as Cristo Redentor, this statue of Jesus Christ, erected in 1931, has become an icon in Rio and symbolizes Brazil's immense devotion to Catholicism. Jessica and I admired the 360 views amongst a number of other tourists and after taking in our fair share of the statue and the city, we headed off to our next destination. After a rather long drive (today marked a local holiday) we finally arrived at Sugar Loaf Mountain, aka Pão de Açúcar. Rising more than 1200 feet above the harbor, the name Sugar Loaf is said to refer to its resemblance to the traditional shape of concentrated refined loaf sugar. Upon our arrival, we boarded a glass-paneled cable car that took us up to the first stop where we were welcomed by another amazing view of the city. We then boarded the second cable car that took us to the top of Sugar Loaf. After an extensive photo shoot of the surroundings and ourselves, we headed back to the bottom of the loaf to enjoy some lunch. We ate a fabulous salad at the restaurant located at the boarding station accompanied by a cool glass of white wine. Once we were back with our tour guide, Jessica and I inquired about visiting one of the many favela's that are intertwined within the streets of Rio. Favelas, also known as the shantytowns in Brazil, originated in the late 19th century when freed slaves with no land and no work chose to dwell there. Over the years many freed blacks continued moving to these areas, and eventually the term favela was developed as more and more people were pushed out of downtown and into these neighborhoods. Today, around 20% of Rio de Janeiro's population lives in favelas, and despite the governments attempts to decrease this rate, it only continues to grow. Favelas are ran by drug dealers and their gangs, lack police control, and are rather dangerous to visit as a tourist. Our particular driver agreed to drive us through one of the largest favela's in Rio, Rocinha, only because it happened to be mid day. Had it been dusk or later, there would have been no chance. Upon entering I was astonished at the amount of people who reside in such a small area. It is estimated that 250,000 reside in this favela alone. The houses are built vertically and the stone and brick buildings are piled one on top of the other. Our driver also advised us to not take any photos as it can draw attention- that was certainly something we did not want to do. We were in the favela for a total of 25-30 minutes, and drove from one side all the way through to the other. Located only one kilometer from the beach, the people who reside in Rocinha have access to one of the most beautiful views in Rio for a very cheap price. They also have their own version of taxis, which come in the form of motorbikes (therefore our typical yellow and black ride managed to stand out a bit). Although I did not feel particularly unsafe as we drove through, I was definitely perched on the edge of my seat, only hoping for the best. During my last visit in Rio I had a driver who did not feel safe driving me through a favela, and so I feel grateful to have had the opportunity to do so this time. It truly is incredible to see how differently the people in Rio live and is something that has to be seen first hand. After our tour we headed back to our hotel where we showered up for dinner. We had plans to meet up with Jessica's 2nd cousin who lives in Rio for part of the year. We met him and his girlfriend at his upscale pad in Ipanema and chatted over a couple of champagne cocktails while sitting on his patio overlooking Lagoa Lake and a lit up Christ the Redeemer. For dinner we went to Alessandro e Frederico pizzeria in Ipanema, which turned out two of the most amazing pizza's I've ever had. We had quite the feast before heading back to our hotel for a sounds night sleep.

After an amazing dinner with Jessica's Uncle, he was kind enough to offer the extra room in his apartment for us to stay. While comparing the pros and cons of our rather skeptical Copacabana hotel, and his penthouse Ipanema pad, we couldn't come up with a single reason why we should turn down the offer. Therefore, we packed up our bags and headed south to Ipanema where we would spend the next couple of nights. After settling in, dressing ourselves in beach attire (Caipirinha and all) we soaked up the sun on the rooftop pool while we awaited the arrival of Jessica's friend Ali from home. I think she was a little bewildered when the driver we sent to the airport for her pulled up to an apartment in Ipanema, when the itinerary we sent her said that her driver would bring her to our hotel in Copacabana. However, I think she was pleasantly surprised with our new accommodations after a quick tour and a description of our hotel. We all spent the rest of the afternoon by the pool working on our Brazilian tans (we all had a very long way to go!). That night we attempted having dinner at Sushi Leblon, a rather posh restaurant in Leblon. However, due to Madonna's appearance here a few weeks before, the two hour wait drove us to a different restaurant only a couple of doors down. Quadrucci was a fabulous restaurant. Ali and I shared a filet that came with a delicious side of pasta that we are still raving about. Jessica and her Uncle both ate a fish that they were very happy with as well. After dinner the five of us headed to the Copacabana Palace for a little after dinner fun. This renowned Rio hotel has a poolside club, 'Bar do Copa', a stylish spot that boasts a fun dance floor and lively DJ tunes. Us three girls pulled out some of our moves before we were seriously undermined by a couple of local dancers that seemed to have choreographed moves to each song. Needless to say, they put us in our place and we spent the rest of our time watching their extensive (and rather impressive) moves!

Saturday marked our last day in Rio. We woke up early attempting to get in as much as we could. Us girls had shopping on our mind so headed to a couple of must do's: Salinas and Farm (my two favorite stores in Brazil). After a few purchases we went to the H.Stern workshop for their free tour. This world headquarters welcomes over 10,000 visitors each month, and gives a first hand look at how their jewelry is created. After the tour you have the opportunity to purchase stones at your own discretion. I had to use a little self-restraint during this part of tour and actually ended up leaving empty handed (I was very proud of myself!). After a hitting a couple of other Ipanema favorites like Osklen we headed off to the beach. Lacking the knowledge of knowing which 'posta' to sit at (later learning #9 is the place to be), Jessica and posted up at the first place we saw suitable: water, soft sand, cute boys, and a caipirinha tent right behind us. After a couple of hours on the beach, we both concluded that people watching on Ipanema could become a serious past time. This beach attracts people of all types and provides endless entertainment. After the sun set over the mountains us girls headed back to the apartment to get ready for dinner. Tonight we made attempt #2 at Sushi Leblon and were able to get a table after 30 minutes of wait time. After a delightful (yet not amazing) dinner we headed to Lapa for a night on the town. After a few recommendations from friends to go to Rio Scenarium, we made this our destination. RIo Scenarium is a rather stunning spot as it is located in a renovated warehouse and decorated head to toe in antiques. When we pulled up to the club I think all of our jaws hit the floor when we saw the easily 4 block line to get in. After a quick decision to either flee to another joint or attempt a wait in the line, we decided to stick it out and wait. We were very relieved when the line started moving quickly, and within 15 minutes we were inside the door. Greeted by old cars, grandfather clocks, and a local live band, we all had a feeling this was going to be a good night. Although Rio Scenarium is a rather tourist destination, we managed to meet 3 local boys who vowed to show us a more local experience. Us five then ventured back to Ipanema where we hit up a little bar on one of the side streets. We spent the remainder of the night drinking some local beer, learning fun Brazilian facts, and attempting to understand some Portuguese (which was a rather big failure). From here we all decided it would be fun to go for a late night ocean swim, however, once we were on the beach our new friend Daniel (who happened to be sporting a rather typical Brazilian style Speedo under his jeans) was the only one who happened to actually go in the water. After probably the most memorable night of our trip we headed back to our apartment as the sun started to set and managed to get a couple hours of shuteye before our morning wake up call.

At 10:00am on Sunday a car from our hotel in Buzios arrived to pick us up in Rio. After saying our farewells to Jessica's Uncle and his girlfriend (two of the best hosts in the world) we headed north to Buzios. After a two hour drive through the lush mountains and seaside freeways of Brazil, we pulled up to a small town where kite surfers glided the beaches, cobblestones lined the streets, and charming pousadas had us oohing and awing one after another. When we finally pulled up to our own pousada, Casas Brancas, we were greeted by a glass of champagne and a charming staff. Before we knew it we were poolside, a cocktail in one hand, sunscreen in the other, gazing out across the breathtaking bay of Buzios. After some lunch we decided to take a walk to our first (out of a total of 23) beach. Located only about 10 minutes down the beach boardwalk is Ossos beach, one of the main beaches near downtown. After discovering a beachside bar in a newly opened Pousada, we decided to enjoy a couple passion fruit caipirinhas, which the owner was very excited to make for us. He even served us a plate of octopus ceviche and personal drink concoction's on the house.... Jessica enjoyed the ceviche while I stuck to the fruit cocktails :) After watching the orange and pink sunset over the water, we headed back to our hotel to shower up for dinner. That night we headed down the cobblestone boardwalk to Bar Do Ze, a recommendation that came from Jessica's Uncle. Sitting at a table with a blue sea shelled cover tablecloth, a dimly lit candle, and view over the water, we wouldn't have been disappointed even if the food wasn't amazing. However, after an order of the filet with mushroom risotto, a red snapper served on top of baked bananas with raisins and nuts, and a red snapper in a red wine vinaigrette, we couldn't have been more satisfied. Finding ourselves overstuffed, slightly burned, and completely satisfied, we made our way back to our hotel where we lounged on the poolside couches, watching for shooting stars and enjoying a little girl talk before bed.

Waking with an urge to get our beach day going we enjoyed the first of many amazing breakfasts at our hotel. With an abundance of fresh fruit, homemade coffee, and freshly scrambled eggs we were set until late afternoon. Today we ventured to Praia Geriba, one of the largest and most popular beaches in Buzios. Due to its location and larger waves, Geriba is also a popular surf spot. After an attempt to walk the mile from our hotel to Geriba, the heat got the best of us and we hopped on the town bus, a white VW van. After arriving on the beach we posted ourselves at one of the many beach restaurants where a charge of 5 dollars will get you a chair, umbrella, and wait service. A couple of hours of sun in, I realized I was no longer in San Diego and my 4 SPF sunscreen wasn't going to cut it. After lathering on the 45 I realized I was a little too late; I was burned and there was nothing to do about it. After a few hours under the sun we walked down the beach to 'Fishbone', another request from Jessica's Uncle. Here we enjoyed a lunch of fried fish sandwiches (a turkey and pineapple wrap for me!) and some local Skol beer. After deciding I probably did not qualify to go back in the sun I the other girls soaked up a little more before we all caught the local bus back to our hotel. We all took a nice afternoon nap and rose just in time for dinner. This night we ventured into town a little early to check out the adorable boutique shops in town. Despite Buzios being a small town, the prices were rather steep! I found all the clothes I loved were a bit out of my price range and had to keep my purchases to a minimum. We had dinner at a wonderful restaurant called Cigalon. This amazing French restaurant sits on the waterfront, and offers an assortment of elegant food. I ordered a delicious chicken breast that was served with steamed vegetables, Ali ordered a shrimp tortellini (which she fell head over heels for) and Jessica ordered ricotta raviolis that were served in a shrimp sauce. For dessert we enjoyed a caiprinha on the house and then lazily headed back to our hotel for a good nights sleep.

Tuesday was my favorite of all of our days in Buzios. We woke up early, enjoyed another delicious breakfast at the hotel, and then awaited the arrival of our ‘ride’ for the day. When the lady pulled up in our bright orange ‘Baby RS’, we knew we were going to be cruising around Buzio’s in style. Because Jessica happens to be the only one of us with experience in driving manual cars, she was our designated driver. After a rather lurching exit of the parking lot, and waving farewell to our now very nervous looking rentee, we headed off. Although the town of Buzios is rather small, we quickly learned finding all the necessary beach destinations was not going to be an easy task. With the lack of street signs, paved roads, and clear cut roots, our first beach destination took us a little over 40 minutes to find. After stopping for directions (maybe 10 times), and being physically escorted by a local, we finally made it to Praia de Farradurinha. This small beach was one of the most beautiful that we visited. We shared a couple of Skol beers while relaxing in the provided lounge chairs before heading off to our next beach. Back in our Baby RS, the three of us decided that traveling in our buggy from beach to beach was just as fun (if not more) as being on the actual beach. During this particular excursion we ran into a little mishap. As we started to climb a rather steep hill, our Baby started to lose momentum and within a couple of seconds we found ourselves stranded in the middle of the hill with the option to go either up or down. At this point Jessica looks at me and says, “We don’t have hills in New Orleans. What do I do now?” After a number of unsuccessful attempts, we found ourselves alarming wedged up against a metal street sign. The only option now was to go up. Without the confidence that Jessica could take us up instead of back into the post and then into the rather large tree located right behind that, we turned to an outside resource: a motorcyclist now working his way up the same hill. Our victim, a local man with zero English speaking abilities and a look that thought we might be crazy, finally caught on to what we were asking of him to do. Once Jessica strategically handed off the reigns to him, I soon found our buggy making its way up the hill with Jessica chasing after us. Now that we were safely at the top, we slowly made our way down to Praia da Ferradura. We found the water at this beach to be less impressive than our previous finds, and figured we shouldn’t waste our time at a beach that didn’t satisfy. Therefore, we headed to our final destination on the Eastern end of Buzios, Praia Brava. Our hotel recommended a little restaurant situated on the beach, and we figured this would be a perfect opportunity for lunch. Rocka is an adorable shack situation on the beach hillside, offering a view of both the luminous green mountains, and aqua blue water. The wait staff consisted of young, cute Brazilian boys who offered up some delicious food suggestions. Jessica enjoyed a ceviche, me a salad, and Ali the fish of the day. After lunch we made our way down to the sand where we soaked up the remainder of the day’s sun. After a couple of hours of snoozing, observing the abnormally large beach crabs, soaking in the breathtaking view, and enjoying the cool water, we said farewell to my favorite Buzio’s beach, and headed back to the hotel. After a quick shower and clothing change, we headed back to town for some final shopping. After a few purchases we headed back to our hotel for dinner, opting for the highly anticipated pizza at our hotels DECK restaurant. Rumor had it that DECK offered up the tastiest pizza in all of Buizos, and we figured there were no better judges. We ordered a traditional margarita pizza along with a pesto and garlic. Both were absolutely exceptional, and I would pass on the recommendation as many others have done. After dinner we headed into town for another highly recommended experience: Chez Michou, the neighborhood creperie/hang out. Jessica passed up dessert, however Ali ordered the banana with dulce de leche while I did the banana with chocolate (both equally delectable). Word on the street has it that Chez Michou is the place to be during summer nights. People of all ages gather here for at this outside patio joint to pre-drink and enjoy a little snack before heading off to one of the few world famous clubs that can be found in Buzios (Pacha, Privilege, and more). Unfortunately our night ended at Chez Michou due to the fact that summer didn’t start for another few weeks. Therefore, we savored our crepes, passed on the cocktails, and headed back to our beloved hotel for our last night in this unforgettable city.

We woke up Wednesday morning wishing we could extend our stay… I’ll admit we even looked into flight changes but knew it just wasn’t possible. Before checkout we managed to soak up a few hours of sun by the pool, head into town to stock up on some Havaianas (local sandals), and enjoy a final meal atop the patio at Casas Brancas. Around four our inevitable departure had arrived. We loaded our luggage into our car and headed back down south to Rio to catch our flight. Thirty minutes outside of Rio we found ourselves caught in a terrible rainstorm. We all sat in the back seat with our fingers crossed, hoping that there was a slight chance our flight had been cancelled. Unfortunately, we arrived at the airport to find our flight was still 'on time'. We spent our final reals on the Brazilian necessities: Guarana (the best soda that can only be found here), fita wish ribbon bracelets, and a bottle of Amarula for our flight back.

We have been back in Buenos Aires for almost a week now, and have been showing Ali around town. There a number of new restaurants we have tried and we will post about them soon. Tomorrow marks a big day as it is the arrival of my mom and sister, and the departure for Ali. There is much more to be blogged about so keep checking back for some updates!

spring is in the air

It’s been quite a while since the last time I entered a blog and as we are running off to Brazil tomorrow, I feel there are some things I must fill you in on before we go. This past week Jessica and I have spent much of our time exploring the city in both the food and cultural aspect. As our time here is coming to a close end we are trying to make it to all of the restaurants on our “must do” list (which seems to be getting longer each day!). Starting with last week we finally made it to Sarkis, a wonderful Mediterranean restaurant that we were definitely impressed with. We also headed back to 878 that night and discovered a ‘secret’ back room that we now work our way into each time we go. Tuesday was class number 5 with saltshaker, where we delved into ‘Contorni’ dishes, or side plates, as they like to call them in Italy. We made four classic vegetable side dishes that are meant to make the main dishes we have learned shine. Of the four Jessica and I fell head over heels with one dish that was garnished with red wine vinaigrette.

On Thursday Jessica and I enjoyed a beautiful day in the park. We stopped at a local cheese shop on our way to the Jardin Japonais, stocked up on one of the most impressive cheese plates I’ve seen here yet, and then enjoyed the mile or so walk to the park. The Japanese Gardens were not quite what I was expecting, and although they are a wonderful place to go and see, it isn’t quite the place for a picnic. However, we found a large bench where Jessica and I spread our blanket, laid out our cheese plate, and enjoyed a wonderful glass of white wine. That night we had our typical Thursday night yoga class at Chakra Mio (got our butts kicked) and then topped off our evening with a CBC burrito… there are just some things that just never seem to disappoint!

Heading into the weekend we started Friday night off with happy hour at Kansas (10 peso drinks here can’t be beat!), and then made our way over to Congo, which is actually quite the place. Located only a couple of blocks down the street, Jessica and I have been trying to get ourselves there for months. This fashionable ‘post-dinner’ spot is frequented by the younger BA hipster crowd, and has an exceptionally appealing back garden that tends to liven up on these beautiful spring nights. After a couple of deliciously made drinks we headed next door to Kika which ended up putting quite a spin on the night. We left the club quite a state of shock after two of our close friends were brutally kicked out of the side door for seemingly no reason (literally). One managed to make it out the door with just a forceful push, while the other managed to take a punch to the side of the face before being kicked out. To this day we are all still wondering what in the world caused for this type of behavior from the bouncers… it was like nothing I have ever seen.

Saturday Jessica and I had our first taste of polo at the Palermo stadium. We meet up with our polo guru’s, Whitney & Nick, friends from home who are down here training the professional polo players horses for them. After the games we headed to a Mexican joint in Las Canitas called Lupita's where we enjoyed some quite delicious burritos, and quesadillas (matched with a couple of coronas) in celebration of another beautiful day. That night we headed to Tequila, a ‘exclusive’ venue located in Costnaera Norte and were definitely not let down. The impressive music line-up kept us dancing until the wee hours of the morning, and around 6am we enjoyed a cab ride home admiring one of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen.

Sunday was a day of relaxation for the two of us, and Jessica and I actually headed to La Cabrera for our second dinner at this ever-popular BA restaurant. The ojo de bife was once again impressive and we left with a couple of seriously full stomachs. Back at 878 for an after dinner drink, Jessica indulged in a house whiskey classic which never seems to disappoint.

Yesterday in Buenos Aires proved to be an amazing day: 80 degrees and sunny, so Jessica and I celebrated by laying out at the pool and getting a head start on our 'brazilian tan'. Unfortunately for us the only thing we went home with were a couple of serious sunburns (I don't think we got the memo that the sun is a little more intense down here). For dinner we met a couple of friends at Sudestada, an excellent Palermo Hollywood restaurant that serves up some impressive Pan-Asian dishes. We started our meal with a veggie/chicken spring roll dish that we definitely get us to come back for more, and then shared a cashew and chicken stir fried dish for our main course. To top off our meal we indulged in a couple passion fruit/vodka cocktails that were absolutely mouth-watering. After dinner we headed to Antares, a beer house in Palermo Soho, thinking we were going to hit their Monday nights 'live music', however all we found were some tunes playing over the stereo. Despite the lack of entertainment we all enjoyed an Antares brew and I was definitely impressed with the honey beer, which took me back to my days of some unbeatable local Colorado Beer!

Today it was back to the SaltShaker for class number six. Class was quite the experience as the focus for today was, well, not particularly my favorite...FISH & SHELLFISH. Not only did we learn how to clean and take apart a squid, but we also learned how to filet a sardine. I will have to admit that maybe I didn’t participate ‘hands-on’ but I definitely sat back and watched. I even have photos that prove I tried a couple of the end products! The clams were not exactly my favorite, however, I will have to say the squid wasn’t terrible. My goal of becoming a seafood eater isn't exactly looking up.... I haven't given up hope just yet though! Who knows what may happen in Brazil. Due to yet another rain storm Jessica and I headed to the theatre after class and saw one of the worst movies yet. White Out, a movie starring Kate Beckinsale, who plays a U.S. Marshall based in Antarctica, was a huge disappointment. Not that our standards were set too high before seeing the movie, but we were still largely let down by this film and don't exactly recommend anyone go see (or rent) it.

Tonight we spent most of our time packing and preparing for our journey tomorrow. We are both on the edge of our seats excited for our trip and have shared our itinerary with you below. If you have any recommendations for us please feel free to let us know!

Karlyn, Jessica & Ali

do Rio de Janeiro & Bulzio!

Day 1, Wednesday, November 18

WEATHER: Showers, High: 67, Low 61

13:15 – Leave apartment for airport

16:15 – Flight leaves for Rio de Janeiro (Aerolineas Argentinas AR1256)

20:15 – Land in Rio- take taxi to hotel

21:30 – Arrive and check in at Copacabana Praia Hotel (http://www.copacabanapraiahotel.com.br/)

“The 11-story Copacabana Praia is an ageing hotel located in Arpoador, a neighborhood within walking distance of both Ipanema and Copacabana beaches. Rooms are simple, clean and comfortable. Popular with a mix of foreign and Brazilian travelers, the Copacabana Praia has a wide range of rooms. The best are rather spacious with dark-wood details, stuffed leather armchairs, marble-topped desks, stone-tiled bathrooms and pressed wood floors (older rooms still have carpeting). Small-framed prints depicting scenes from early 20th-century Rio lend a bit of nostalgia to each of the rooms. The best features, however, are the balconies, which you'll find in every room. Book the top floors for partial views of the beach. The pool upstairs is small but still makes a pleasant spot for a cocktail at sunset.”

23:00 – Drinks at the lobby Hotel Fasano

“The Hotel Fasano was the talk of Rio in 2007, eclipsing the fabled Copacabana Palace as the top play den for Brazil’s rich and famous. While the initial hype may have faded and celebrity sightings are less common, the Philippe Starck-designed hotel still retains an aura of exclusivity, especially from its bossa nova-chic lobby and sexy rooftop pool. Almost makes you feel sorry for those slumming it down below on Ipanema Beach.”

Day 2, Thursday, November 19

WEATHER: AM Clouds PM Sun, High: 90, Low 74

10:00 – Wake up call

11:00 – Go see Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor)

“One of Rio's most identifiable landmarks, the magnificent 38m-high Cristo Redentor looms large atop Corcovado. From here, the statue - all 1145 tons of him - has stunning views over Rio (which explains the contented expression on his face). Corcovado, which means 'hunchback,' rises straight up from the city to a height of 710m, and at night, the brightly lit statue is visible from nearly every part of the city"

13:00 – Sugar Loaf (Pão de Açúcar)

“One of Rio's dazzling icons, Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf) offers a vision of Rio at its most disarming. Following a steep ascent up the mountain, you'll be rewarded with superb views of Rio's gorgeous shoreline, and the city planted among the green peaks. For prime views of the cidade maravilhosa, go around sunset on a clear day.”

15:00 – Lunch at Sushi Leblon

“Leblon's top sushi destination boasts a Zen like ambience with a handsome, dark wood sushi counter setting the stage for succulent cuisine. In addition to sashimi and sushi, you'll find grilled namorado (a type of perch) with passion fruit farofa, sea-urchin ceviche and refreshing sake to complement the meal.”

17:00 – Relax by hotel pool with some fruity cocktails

23:00 – Dinner at Quadrifoglio

“Considered by most locals to be the best Italian restaurant in the city, cozy Quadrifoglio is tucked away on a quiet street. The food and the service are impeccable; the restaurant has been around since 1991 and much of the original waitstaff still works there. Some favorite entrée choices are spinach ravioli and the fabulous salads. Leave room for desserts, which are what the place is most famous for.”

Eat in jardim botanicles,

24:00 – Get a drink at Saturnino

“Swanky martini bar in Jardim Botanico, filled with hip locals. Lots of variations on the caipirinha, so try them all.” (Rua Saturnino de Brito 50, Jardim Botanico)

1:00 – Go out to Lapa 40 Graus if we still have the energy!

“One of the best new places to open up recently in Lapa: 4 floors, each with different bands and DJs. The first floor has a butequim and pool hall, the second a lounge, the third another pool hall, the forth a large dance floor and stage with Rio´s top names in Samba and other sounds from Rio. Amazing! Lots of dancing. Come early and stay till the wee hours.” (Rua do Riachuelo 97, Lapa)

Day 3, Friday, November 20

WEATHER: Partly Cloudy, High 90, Low 75

10:00 – Wake up call

11:00 – Shopping in Ipanema

“Stroll down streets lined with fashionable boutiques, barter with vendors at street fairs, or wander through one of more than two-dozen air-conditioned malls. Good bets are leather, suede, jewelry, and cool summer clothing in natural fibers. Also look for coffee, art, and samba and bossa nova CDs. In Ipanema the main shopping artery is Rua Visconde de Piraja, but the cross-streets are as interesting as. Garcia D'Avila, for one, is the street to visit if you have an interest in jewelry - even if only to dream a little.”

13:00 – Lunch at Forneria Rio

“A perfect lunch destination for Ipanema shoppers. In the tastefully underdone, concrete-floored space, genial young staffers serve Italian standards both traditional (pizza alla Margherita) and adventurous (tramezzini with salmon tartare).”

(Rua Anibal de Mendonca 112

14:00 – Back to shopping!

23:00 – Dinner at 476

“At the end of a road with stunning coastal views, 476 is all about simplicity, with just seven delicious entrées that include moquecas (seafood stews), grilled seafood, and curries. It has only 20 tables, some in a lovely garden at water's edge. The quiet fishing village 13 km (8 mi) west of Barra da Tijuca is a nice respite from the bustling Zona Sul.” (Rua Barros de Alarcão 476)

1:00 – Go out at Clandestino

“Clandestino is an European style underground club: dark, dungeony and with a basement with a compact dance floor. What´s cool is that every Friday is Black Friday, which is when Brazilians and foreigners get down to hip-hop, brazilian funk and all other types of “black music”. Given most travellers have been confused about how to enjoy brazilian music, here you see them really enjoy and dance to music they know. A great place to meet a Brazilian or foreigner. International beers and mixed drinks.”

(Rua Barata Ribeiro 111, Copacabana)

Day 4, Saturday, November 21

WEATHER: Cloudy, High: 89, Low 75

10:00 - Wake up call

11:00 – Beach day @ Cococabana and Ipanema

13:00 – Get a snack at Mil Frutas

“On chic Rua Garcia D'Ávila (next door to Rio's only Louis Vuitton store), Mil Frutas serves tasty ice cream that showcases fruits from the Amazon and abroad. Jaca (jackfruit), lychee and açaí are among the several dozen varieties - all of which are best enjoyed on the tiny shade-covered patio out front.” (Rue Garcia D’Avila 134A)

18:00 – Grab some after beach drinks at Bar D’Hotel and watch the sunset

“The waves crashing on the shore are just part of the background of this texture-rich bar overlooking Ipanema beach. The narrow bar is like a magnet for the style set, who gather in the intimate space to enjoy tropical drinks to the backdrop of sea and ambient electronic music.”

23:00 – Dinner at Miam Miam

“Funky is hard to find in Rio de Janeiro, so Miam Miam has found the perfect niche to fill. This funky and hip eatery/lounge/bar is whimsically decorated with fabulous kitsch touches, without trying too hard. The result is a cozy room divided into a lounge area with comfortable couches and love seats and a somewhat more staid dining room. The lounge area is really the place to be, perfect for enjoying a cocktail and sharing some appetizers. The menu offers a range of high-end pub food: salads, sandwiches, pastas, risotto, and a few main courses such as a grilled tuna in a peppercorn crust or a steak with baked potato. If you are planning to eat a full meal you may want to opt for one of the Formica tables but make sure you grab that spot on the couch for dessert and an after-dinner drink.”

1:00 – Go out to either Zero Zero or Hard Rock

“You can spend all night at 00 and not get bored. Rio`s creme de la creme hit this flawlessly designed modern lounge, part outdoor (mingling area), part indoor (tables), with cutting edge contemporary cuisine (try the salmon burger) and a tiny dance floor that fits everyone. Try a cigar on the asian chaises outside under the stars.” (Av. Padre Leonel Franca 240, Gávea (Planetario)

“Hard Rock Cafe? Really? Really. Ok, so they are a world-wide chain, but they do know how to throw a party. Imagine a bunch of Brazilians, who are already festive, fervent with rock and roll in their veins. Plus, Brazil also has it´s own rock too, so you´ll get a great mix of American, British and Brazilian rock on Saturdays. What´s more, on Fridays, flashback night, you get a lot more singles than anywhere else in Rio, so, you know... you may make a Brazilian connection!”

(Shopping Città América - Av. das Américas, 700 - 3º andar - Barra da Tijuca)

Day 5, Sunday, November 22

WEATHER: Cloudy, High 88, Low 75

WEATHER: Cloudy, High 83, Low 76

10:00 – Wake up and leave for Bulzios (2.5 hour car ride)

13:00 – Arrive and check into Pousada Casas Brancas (http://www.casasbrancas.com.br/)

“Built into a hillside overlooking the water a five-minute walk from the center of town, the pousada is divided into several levels, providing common areas for mingling with other guests and secluded nooks for more private moments. Some of the rooms that face the sea have their own balconies, which vary from a large tiled porch to the smaller vine-covered ones. The landscaping and decorative touches at Casas Brancas set it apart from other pousadas: a turtle shell served as a sconce for the light outside the doors; palm trees, flowering bushes and potted plants give the small pool and nearby decks a tropical feel; and billowy white fabric form a canopy over the dining room, which was open on three sides to views of colorful boats bobbing in the sea below. That view was replaced by twinkling lights at night, against a soundtrack of Brazilian jazz coming from the bar -- the perfect setting for a round of caipirinhas, the drink of choice in Brazil, made from crushed lime, sugar and cachaça, a spirit distilled from sugar cane juice.”

14:00 – Ossos Beach

“This beach is easy to find if you know where to look for it. Near downtown, you can walk to it after having a refreshing lunch or morning cafe. Trees hang down over this Buzios beach and homes front the road that runs in front of it. A perfect place for a sunset picture as it faces due west, Ossos is bathed in fascinating history. Don't miss this highly recommended beach and take time to take in the peacefulness that now permeates the winding road that takes you past this beauty.”

15:00 – Lunch/snack at Cigalon

“This fabulous French restaurant is right on the waterfront along Rua das Pedras. Candlelight dancing off the water and crisp white tablecloths prepare you for the elegance of the food to come.”

21:00 – Dinner at Patio Havana

“By the same owners as the Estancia Don Juan, the Patio Havana offers not only a restaurant but also a cigar shop, bar, lounge, and wine bar. The specialty is seafood. The seafood pasta and grilled lobster in a butter-and-lemon sauce are outstanding. The menu includes many other options including seven different kinds of carpaccios, excellent salads (almost a meal in themselves), and tasty sandwiches. The kitchen also turns out some great steak dishes. Look for the Filet do Pastor, a tender steak stuffed with goat cheese and served with a Dijon mustard sauce. The lounge hosts live music, usually bossa nova, samba, blues, or jazz. Thursday is salsa night. The music with free dance lesson kicks off at 9:30pm.”

Day 6, Monday, November 23

WEATHER: Scattered Showers, High 85, Low 75

10:00 – Wake up call

11:00 – Breakfast at the hotel

12:00 – Geribá Beach

“Geribá beach is the main beach in Buzios. It is where locals and tourists hang out. The beach is a great place for sun bathing, sand fun, swimming and surfing. It is known for its large waves, which make it a surfer’s paradise. It is located on the south side of Buzios right on the Atlantic Ocean. There is always a crowd at this beach, but it never seems too crowded, so you can enjoy a day here without feeling overwhelmed by other people.”

21:00 – Dinner at Ponto Bar

“To simply sit, sip a drink, and check out the action, the place to be is Ponto Bar, which serves Japanese food accompanied by the sounds of long-in-the-tooth rockers such as the Rolling Stones and Eric Clapton.”

Day 7, Tuesday, November 24

WEATHER: Partly Cloudy, High 87, Low 75

10:00 – Wake up call

11:00 – Breakfast at the hotel

12:00 – Beach Cruise

“For about $8, you can take a cruise that visits many of the northern beaches, with stops for swimming and lunch. It is a good way to see many beaches and enjoy the views from offshore. The cruises typically include all the caipirinhas you can drink, water, fresh fruit and Guaraná, a sweet carbonated drink made from a fruit that grows in the Amazon (a deck hand circulates with trays of drinks practically nonstop).

17:00 – Massages at the hotel

“Experience Peace. To provide our guests with the utmost excellence in relaxation, Casas Brancas Spa offers a range of the world’s finest spa treatments. Spoil yourself, combat stress, and bring your mind, body and soul into balance.”

21:00 – Dinner at Satyricon

“This restaurant is situated next to the Rua das Pedras, in Orla Bardot, right in the center of Buzios. It serves excellent italian food and seafood. There is a good selection of starters and main dishes, from pastas and risoti to grilled meats, fish and seafood. Everything is very fresh here and really tasty.”

23:00 – Go out to Zapata

“Mexican bar and Disco.”

Day 8, Wednesday, November 25

WEATHER: Mostly Sunny, High 85, Low 76

10:00 – Wake up call

11:00 – Breakfast at the hotel

12:00 – Walk around in town and have lunch at Chez Brigitte

“The entrance to Chez Brigitte is through a small, well-hidden door, leading right into the action. This place captures what Búzios really is: charming, easy going and with a certain air of sophistication. The restaurant faces the ocean and is part of Brigitta's Guest House. Brigitta, the owner, is a charming Czech who speaks four languages, as advertised by the sign at the entrance. Grilled fish and seafood is their specialty, but they also sere sliced sirloin or sausages served with baked potato and sauces.”

14:30 – Ride back to Rio de Janeiro

20:55 – Take off from Rio De Janeiro International (Aerolineas Argentinas AR1257)

23:10 – Land in Buenos Aires, AEP