To the end of the world and back....

As I sit here and try to write about our trip to El Calafate, it’s difficult to find words that explain the once in a lifetime experience we had. After a somewhat stressful trek to the local airport here in Buenos Aires, we boarded our plane and took a rather long nap on our three hour trip down south. When I woke to the stewardess announcing our descent I looked out the window and could not believe me eyes. There were snowy covered mountains and the bluest of blue lakes for as far as I could see. Not only that but there wasn’t a single house, road, car, or rather a sign of life. I couldn’t believe it when the plane finally found the single strip of concrete located alongside the beautiful blue lake. Jessica, Leonardo, Smaranda and I grabbed our bags off the one conveyer belt in the tiny airport and hopped in a cab. As we started driving we all had our camera’s out and couldn’t seem to get enough photos of the already astonishing scenery. Pulling into El Calafate, a small town of only 6,500 inhabitants was an interesting experience as well. The town is located on the beautiful Lake Argentino and has the feel of a small ski town.

As we drove towards the lakes edge we approached our hotel, an enchanting modern yet rugged little place surrounded by nothing but the mountains and the lake. We were greeted at the door with a glass of champagne and a view that can only be described through these photos. After unwinding in our cozy cabin room with the same breathtaking view, we were met downstairs at the fireplace by a Dolce de Leche torte and another bottle of champagne. Yes, Jessica had managed to pull off yet another birthday surprise! (I think this took my cake/birthday song count up to 5). That night we headed into the small town for a dinner at La Tablita, a delicious parilla with some of the best garlic fries I have ever had! That night we made it out for a quick drink at Borges & Alvarez Libro Bar, a local joint dressed with a wooden décor and an eclectic variety of new and old books. After a mouth watering serving of dulce de leche crepe and a café con baileys, we wound our way back to our cozy bed, as we had to rest up for the early morning we had the next day.

Saturday morning we got out of bed early in the morning in order to enjoy the hotel breakfast before hopping in a bus that was headed an hour away to the Perito Moreno Glacier. (QUICK BACKGROUND ON PERITO MORENO: Located in the Los Glaciares National Park Perito Moreno Glacier is a main attraction for visitors in Patagonia. The glacier is approximately 97 square miles, 19 miles in length is located in the Andes system that is shared with Chile, and is the world’s third largest reserve of water. The glacier is also only one of few that is not retreating and stands an average of 240 feet above the surface of the water.) When we arrived we were given a few hours to walk around the park and look at the glacier, and those hours seemed to pass within minutes. The views were so astonishing that it didn’t even seem like it was actually standing before you.

After taking an absurd amount of photos we got back on our bus and headed to a port that was located a little ways back down the lake. Here we boarded a little boat and headed off to our ‘Mini Trekking’ adventure. Our boat traveled across the lake towards the river where we disembarked at a cute little cabin. From here we were met with some travel guides who attached what you call crampons to the bottom of our shoes. Of course Jessica and I being the Zonies that we are, were fully equipped with our ‘warm weather’ Nike sneakers…. Not exactly the type of shoes you want when going to hike a glacier! We managed to make do with what we had and before we knew it a group of 20 of us were heading up the side of the glacier. Although we were well advised on how to walk in our crampons, I will have to admit that it took me a bit to actually trust the large metal spikes beneath my tennis when trying to walk vertically up the side of an icy slope. (My feet and I never really tend to get along!) However, after minutes of traversing up the side of the glacier, with an unimaginable view, it was pretty easy to stop worrying about my feet and start losing myself in the surroundings. With every new ridge we crossed there was another spectacular sight. The blue light the glaciers project is just amazing and in actuality is all an illusion between the ice and the light, which I found very interesting. After a couple of hours of hiking (which again seemed like they passed in minutes) we followed our guides over yet another hill and found two wooden tables placed in the middle of glacier, fully equipped with Famous Grouse Whiskey and alfajores (an Argentine specialty). After breaking up the glacier ice and distributing whiskey on the rocks, everyone warmed their blood with a quick drink. After the trek we all headed back through the forest to the cabin and boarded back onto the boat. As we did so all the clouds parted from the sky, and the sun created the most spectacular sight on the glaciers. I sat on the back of the boat just staring at the most magnificent sight I’ve ever seen.

Exhausted form our long excursion, we headed back to the hotel for a rather long nap, showered up, and headed back into town for a dinner at La Cocina, a restaurant famous for its homemade pastas. Jessica and I shared a delicious portion of ravioli. After dinner we could all barely keep our eyes open and we headed back to the hotel for another sound night of sleep. After waking the next morning around 9:30 (had to make sure we took full advantage of the free & delicious breakfast!) we all lounged around the hotel as the amenities were all to die for. After a bit of relaxation we ventured into town where we discovered the most amazing ‘panaderia y confiteria’. Here we indulged in a café con leche and some amazing homemade chocolate chip cookies. After a bit of local shopping we headed back to our hotel as we had some big afternoon plans.

At 5pm we were picked up at our hotel by a car that was guiding us to our next excursion. This time we headed to Estancia Alice, a ranch located on the way to Perito Moreno. Here we were met by a stable of horses that were to guide us along the snow-frosted mountainside. Now, I haven’t been on a horse since the age of 6 or 7 so the thought of riding was a bit nerve racking! Everyone always says to not let the horse sense your fear so as I hopped onto ‘Polly’s’ back I tried to act as calm as possible. Bringing up the rear, it took me a little while to become comfortable on the back of this foreign creature (and truth be told I was a little jumpy until the minute I was back off the horse!) I will have to say though, the two or so hours I spent riding Polly through this countryside were two of the most amazing hours I’ve ever spent. The tranquility and beauty of the area is just incomparable. You can really feel that you are at the end of the world.

After our ride we wound our way back to the estancia where we all huddled by the fire inside the cabin as the gaucho’s starting preparing for the asado. Asado is a term that refers to the South American technique for cooking meat. Known for being the traditional dish of Argentina, meats are grilled over the parilla (grill), and served in absurdly large amounts. Here in the cozy cabin, staring out at a beautifully pink and purple colored sky, we were fed a delicious (and hefty) amount of steak, chicken, sweet potatoes, veggies, and of course, vino. Finished off with another remarkable dish, cinnamon flavored rice pudding, we all loaded back into the car and were driven back to our hotel where I’m pretty sure we were all out the minute our heads hit the pillows!

Jessica and I dedicated day number three to pure relaxation. We woke in the morning to yet another breakfast at the hotel, and headed into town soon after. Here we had a farewell lunch at Casimiro Bigua with Smaranda and Leonardo as they had a flight back to BA that afternoon. After lunch Jessica and I worked our way uptown to a local wine store that had been recommended to us. This little wooden cabin is filled floor to ceiling with an extensive selection of local Argentinean wines. After browsing the large number of wines Jessica and I joined the store’s wine connoisseur in the tasting of a couple of different wines. Satisfied and feeling good Jessica and I headed back to the hotel for our afternoon massage appointments. While Jessica had her massage I swam some laps in the hotel’s indoor pool before fully enjoying one of the most amazing (and affordable) hour-long massages I’ve ever had. Finding ourselves beyond relaxed we decided to enjoy dinner at the hotel and then a movie in bed.

We woke up on day number four making sure we took full advantage of the unforgettable view we had from our bed. We had breakfast at our hotel for the last time and went back to town for some last minute necessities. Jessica enjoyed an hour and half long private yoga class that took place on a loft above our newly beloved wine store, and then we stocked up the El Calfatate specialties: Patagonian wine, locally made (and mouth watering) chocolate, and hand crafted scarves made from a local fabric, Calamaco. After running our last errands we headed back to our beloved hotel to say our farewells. We made sure Jessica gave a special thanks to her hotel friend who introduced her to her new favorite drink, Amarula chilled on ice. And I will have to give it Jessica, Amarula is like baileys only 100x better! I think we both had a little separation anxiety as we pulled away from the hotel… we truly had one of the most relaxing, invigorating, adventurous, and memorable experiences of our lives.

Now back in Buneos Aires we are starting to enjoy the spring weather that is slowly creeping in. We spent Tuesday night with some boys from the UofA who have wound their way through all of South America and found themselves back in BA for a couple days before heading back to the US tomorrow. We all got our dance moves on at Kika before heading back to our casa for some wine/beer. Here we were greeted by a rather interesting experience when one of our pipes broke releasing an excessive amount of water throughout the bottom floor of our apartment. After an extensive search for the water valve and a number of attempts at reaching our landlord, we were forced to do the only thing we knew how to do: dial 911. The cops arrived around 7am to a couple of inches of water that now inhabited our apartment. After finally getting the water turned off we shared a pretty big laugh with the two cops that came to our rescue that night.

Wednesday night I had quite a night as well. My friend Ivan invited me to attend the Buenos Aires filming for a portion of the South American MTV VMA’s. Ivan’s friend, an MTV veejay, provided us with the tickets, and so we spent the night watching the presentation of a couple of awards and the performance of some of the popular S.A. bands.

Last night we met our new friend Pablo at my new favorite restaurant in Buenos Aires. (Just a heads up for everyone that plans on visiting: I will be taking you here!) Il Ballo Del Mattone is a funky Italian spot located only 4 blocks away form our apartment. Decked out in art painted by the owner (which is also for sale), this place has the best pasta to offer. The menu is scribbled on a chalkboard and is constantly changing.

Tonight Jessica and I visited ACABAR, another local joint that is equipped with a number of board games and eccentric drinks. After some papas fritas and a drink we are back at the apartment getting ready to met some friends at a club here called ROXY. This is another place that we have not yet been so we are excited to experience the new vibes!

xx.

Argentina At Its Finest

Little by little Karlyn and I are slowly being exposed to the real world of Argentina. It is pretty easy to manipulate it in your mind to be this picture perfect world when you are a tourist. After being here for over three weeks, I think we are finally coming to grips with the reality of the day-to-day life here. Not that it isn't all picture perfect here for us, but there are so many problems ingrained in the structure of the government, politics, and society.

Karlyn and I were able to face this head on while coming back from Iguazu and we experienced a bumper to bumper standstill on one of the major freeways coming into Buenos Aires. Startled by the interesting commotion we didn't know what to think at first. As we slowly creeped our way up through the lines (creating our own road so to speak) we finally encountered the reason for the chaos. There, we saw a makeshift line of men with their faces covered standing across the road with their cars strategically placed to prevent any access from cars or people. At first, I was very startled and immediately thought back to the wild wild west movies where the horse drawn carriages are attacked by random assailants as they make their way down a treacherous road. Our driver, a three year Argentine veteran, consoled us explaining that this was a typical occurrence and it was completely peaceful, just meant to boldly broadcast their overall goals. It turns out these men were protesters from a nearby factory of Kraft who were unhappy with the recent layoffs at the factory and would not end the freeway standoff until all the protesters were able to resume their previous jobs. I was baffled by the fact that the police refused to intervene and that they were able to maintain their post for over two eight over periods that lasted two days. Due to some strategic persuasion from our driver, we were able to take an extreme detour on back roads following a random car with GPS throughout the countryside using trial and error techniques to evade the blockade. I felt like we were straight out of a movie and the car grew silent as we drove down one dirt road to the next only to finally reach an unbarred highway over an hour and a half later!

After returning home, I was very intrigued and perplexed by the whole situation. As I read through the paper, I saw many similar stories of strikes all throughout the city in protest to the government. As a seriously garrulous individual, I find every reason to talk and I am always very interested to learn about people's opinions on everything and I mean everything. From what I have learned, most people hate President Cristina Kirchner here. Some even claim that she is the worst president that they have ever had before. She is a Peronist leader and acts as a figure head while her husband, Nestor Kirchner, the former president here maintains power.

Throughout her time as president, she has crippled their primary product of beef by implementing a huge tax on all farmers for their cattle. This has resulted in Argentina having to import cattle from other countries for the first time in over a century and has simultaneously encouraged farmers to kill of their cattle in order to refuse the vast tax inflicted on them in a very dry season. Many people claim this will consequently trigger a major crisis, greater than the one now, in ten to fifteen years. She has also placed a huge tax on grain that normally is not maintained in bad seasons, like the previous year.

She was able to be elected because the Peronist party represents mainly the poorer sect of Argentina, which encompasses the majority of the country. They are often paid off for their votes and their livelihood virtually depends on it. Many people here receive some type of work pay (I am not sure of the name) and for this they receive an amount to "work". However, they are often not provided with work, so they are given an amount to live without doing anything. These people will not receive these contributions unless they continue to support the particular candidate who has the power to distribute them. Therefore, the majority of middle to upper class individuals are overpowered in vote size and cannot sway the overriding force of votes to counteract the Peronist tendencies. The vote often goes to those who are uneducated on the subject or are voting because of bribes. In fact, many also claim that she intentionally pays the majority of picketers here in Buenos Aires in order to bring about chaos in the city and portray the image that people from Buenos Aires are deeply unsatisfied with their government. She does this because her party and decisions constantly come in contention with the mayor's demands and the two have faced political standoffs since their time in office. Not to mention, a share of everyone's taxes go to the small city where Nestor is from in Argentina, which is definitely not a coincidence as his wealth has gradually accumulated throughout their time in office. (I apologize if I am slaughtering the politics here or wrong in any sense. This is just what I have learned from talking with other people.)

So this is the current state of affairs and I am fascinated to see what will happen. It's interesting to be right in the forefront of it all since the majority of the economic and political life in Argentina lies in Buenos Aires. For some reason, all of these events are a little too reminiscent of Ayn Rand's Atlas Shrugged. I keep thinking back to the images of unrest she described when the US came shattering down and it seems like she seriously could have been using Argentina as her inspiration. From everything to the locals tearing up railroad tracks to secure the bus system to getting severance for doing absolutely nothing, I think many could gain a great deal of incite if they were to read this book. I, too, would like to read it again just to see the many similarities.

On the other hand, Iguazu was absolutely incredible. As Karlyn mentioned, it's hard to put words to something so vast and amazing. It is a masterpiece of nature and the pictures do not do it justice. We stood in awe as we crossed one bridge to the next constantly perplexed how they were able to build the bridge in the first place. We still have yet to figure it out and I would love for someone to explain how you would even go about starting a feat like that. In addition to Iguazu, we were also fortunate enough to see much of the Argentine countryside. It was beautiful and many pictures to come to illustrate this. However, the rest of Argentina is much poorer than Buenos Aires. I was truly able to feel the huge difference between the two parts as we drove through the small towns and I finally got the feeling that I was actually in a third world country. I am sure El Calafate will have much to teach us as well about the country, so much to come after the weekend.

Anyway, time to get back to the festivities. The birthday girl is just waking from a little snooze and it's about time we continued on with the festivities. I do believe tonight will be her fourth night being sung happy birthday. Needless to say, she is not very happy about this. I'll make sure to make it nice and embarrassing for her.

El Calafate!!

Today Jessica and I are excited to announce that we have booked another weekend get-a-way! The destination this time is El Calafate, Argentina, a small town in southern Patagonia. Located in the Los Glaciaras National Park, we plan to spend our four days relaxing, taking boat rides to the bottom of the glaciers, and warming up by the fire with a hot cup of Baily's and coffee! We are going with our Italian friend Leonardo and a girlfriend of his who will be visiting. Another exciting aspect of our little excursion is that Leonardo and I are both born on September 24 and are really looking forward to celebrating our birthday's in style! We have put Jessica in charge of locating a couple of birthday cakes so we can blow out some candles on top of the glacier :)

Yesterday we went to a marvelous Italian dinner with a new friend Ariel. A fellow American, Ariel came down to Argentina for holiday two years ago and has managed to extend her stay indefinitely! Owner of a rather impressive Real Estate business, Ariel is a fun, young, enthusiastic person who we are so happy to have met! After dinner Jessica and I partied it up at Kika which seems to be becoming our tuesday night spot. Upon our arrival home from the bar Jessica and I found it very amusing to prank phone call a number of friends from the US via skype-- so if you happened to be one of the victims, well, we apologize. We thought we were very funny! Last night I also managed to make the first trip down the stairs- on my toosh. We knew a fall down our rather steep spiral staircase would be inevitable and last night I became the first to do so. I also lost have my toenail in the process which was rather painful this morning!! Tonight we are looking forward to having a sushi dinner at place called Itamae which is located around the corner from our house. The best part about it is on Wednesday's the restaunt has "Ladies Night" and gives all girls 20% of their meal (whoo hoo!) I have even promised Jessica that I will try a couple pieces of her sushi ;) I'll let everyone know how that goes!! For those of you who don't know me I do not eat seafood (literally- none) and Jessica doesn't eat red meat so our goal is to make one another try as much of each as we can. My hope is to return to the US a fish aficionado.... After dinner our 'roomie' is taking us to a new destination called 'rumi'. According to him this will be our new favorite wednesday night spot but we have been warned that it is not uncommon to bring ear-plugs (or purchase them there) because the music is so loud! We'll keep you posted on how this experience goes... Should be interesting! Besos!