spring is in the air

It’s been quite a while since the last time I entered a blog and as we are running off to Brazil tomorrow, I feel there are some things I must fill you in on before we go. This past week Jessica and I have spent much of our time exploring the city in both the food and cultural aspect. As our time here is coming to a close end we are trying to make it to all of the restaurants on our “must do” list (which seems to be getting longer each day!). Starting with last week we finally made it to Sarkis, a wonderful Mediterranean restaurant that we were definitely impressed with. We also headed back to 878 that night and discovered a ‘secret’ back room that we now work our way into each time we go. Tuesday was class number 5 with saltshaker, where we delved into ‘Contorni’ dishes, or side plates, as they like to call them in Italy. We made four classic vegetable side dishes that are meant to make the main dishes we have learned shine. Of the four Jessica and I fell head over heels with one dish that was garnished with red wine vinaigrette.

On Thursday Jessica and I enjoyed a beautiful day in the park. We stopped at a local cheese shop on our way to the Jardin Japonais, stocked up on one of the most impressive cheese plates I’ve seen here yet, and then enjoyed the mile or so walk to the park. The Japanese Gardens were not quite what I was expecting, and although they are a wonderful place to go and see, it isn’t quite the place for a picnic. However, we found a large bench where Jessica and I spread our blanket, laid out our cheese plate, and enjoyed a wonderful glass of white wine. That night we had our typical Thursday night yoga class at Chakra Mio (got our butts kicked) and then topped off our evening with a CBC burrito… there are just some things that just never seem to disappoint!

Heading into the weekend we started Friday night off with happy hour at Kansas (10 peso drinks here can’t be beat!), and then made our way over to Congo, which is actually quite the place. Located only a couple of blocks down the street, Jessica and I have been trying to get ourselves there for months. This fashionable ‘post-dinner’ spot is frequented by the younger BA hipster crowd, and has an exceptionally appealing back garden that tends to liven up on these beautiful spring nights. After a couple of deliciously made drinks we headed next door to Kika which ended up putting quite a spin on the night. We left the club quite a state of shock after two of our close friends were brutally kicked out of the side door for seemingly no reason (literally). One managed to make it out the door with just a forceful push, while the other managed to take a punch to the side of the face before being kicked out. To this day we are all still wondering what in the world caused for this type of behavior from the bouncers… it was like nothing I have ever seen.

Saturday Jessica and I had our first taste of polo at the Palermo stadium. We meet up with our polo guru’s, Whitney & Nick, friends from home who are down here training the professional polo players horses for them. After the games we headed to a Mexican joint in Las Canitas called Lupita's where we enjoyed some quite delicious burritos, and quesadillas (matched with a couple of coronas) in celebration of another beautiful day. That night we headed to Tequila, a ‘exclusive’ venue located in Costnaera Norte and were definitely not let down. The impressive music line-up kept us dancing until the wee hours of the morning, and around 6am we enjoyed a cab ride home admiring one of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen.

Sunday was a day of relaxation for the two of us, and Jessica and I actually headed to La Cabrera for our second dinner at this ever-popular BA restaurant. The ojo de bife was once again impressive and we left with a couple of seriously full stomachs. Back at 878 for an after dinner drink, Jessica indulged in a house whiskey classic which never seems to disappoint.

Yesterday in Buenos Aires proved to be an amazing day: 80 degrees and sunny, so Jessica and I celebrated by laying out at the pool and getting a head start on our 'brazilian tan'. Unfortunately for us the only thing we went home with were a couple of serious sunburns (I don't think we got the memo that the sun is a little more intense down here). For dinner we met a couple of friends at Sudestada, an excellent Palermo Hollywood restaurant that serves up some impressive Pan-Asian dishes. We started our meal with a veggie/chicken spring roll dish that we definitely get us to come back for more, and then shared a cashew and chicken stir fried dish for our main course. To top off our meal we indulged in a couple passion fruit/vodka cocktails that were absolutely mouth-watering. After dinner we headed to Antares, a beer house in Palermo Soho, thinking we were going to hit their Monday nights 'live music', however all we found were some tunes playing over the stereo. Despite the lack of entertainment we all enjoyed an Antares brew and I was definitely impressed with the honey beer, which took me back to my days of some unbeatable local Colorado Beer!

Today it was back to the SaltShaker for class number six. Class was quite the experience as the focus for today was, well, not particularly my favorite...FISH & SHELLFISH. Not only did we learn how to clean and take apart a squid, but we also learned how to filet a sardine. I will have to admit that maybe I didn’t participate ‘hands-on’ but I definitely sat back and watched. I even have photos that prove I tried a couple of the end products! The clams were not exactly my favorite, however, I will have to say the squid wasn’t terrible. My goal of becoming a seafood eater isn't exactly looking up.... I haven't given up hope just yet though! Who knows what may happen in Brazil. Due to yet another rain storm Jessica and I headed to the theatre after class and saw one of the worst movies yet. White Out, a movie starring Kate Beckinsale, who plays a U.S. Marshall based in Antarctica, was a huge disappointment. Not that our standards were set too high before seeing the movie, but we were still largely let down by this film and don't exactly recommend anyone go see (or rent) it.

Tonight we spent most of our time packing and preparing for our journey tomorrow. We are both on the edge of our seats excited for our trip and have shared our itinerary with you below. If you have any recommendations for us please feel free to let us know!

Karlyn, Jessica & Ali

do Rio de Janeiro & Bulzio!

Day 1, Wednesday, November 18

WEATHER: Showers, High: 67, Low 61

13:15 – Leave apartment for airport

16:15 – Flight leaves for Rio de Janeiro (Aerolineas Argentinas AR1256)

20:15 – Land in Rio- take taxi to hotel

21:30 – Arrive and check in at Copacabana Praia Hotel (http://www.copacabanapraiahotel.com.br/)

“The 11-story Copacabana Praia is an ageing hotel located in Arpoador, a neighborhood within walking distance of both Ipanema and Copacabana beaches. Rooms are simple, clean and comfortable. Popular with a mix of foreign and Brazilian travelers, the Copacabana Praia has a wide range of rooms. The best are rather spacious with dark-wood details, stuffed leather armchairs, marble-topped desks, stone-tiled bathrooms and pressed wood floors (older rooms still have carpeting). Small-framed prints depicting scenes from early 20th-century Rio lend a bit of nostalgia to each of the rooms. The best features, however, are the balconies, which you'll find in every room. Book the top floors for partial views of the beach. The pool upstairs is small but still makes a pleasant spot for a cocktail at sunset.”

23:00 – Drinks at the lobby Hotel Fasano

“The Hotel Fasano was the talk of Rio in 2007, eclipsing the fabled Copacabana Palace as the top play den for Brazil’s rich and famous. While the initial hype may have faded and celebrity sightings are less common, the Philippe Starck-designed hotel still retains an aura of exclusivity, especially from its bossa nova-chic lobby and sexy rooftop pool. Almost makes you feel sorry for those slumming it down below on Ipanema Beach.”

Day 2, Thursday, November 19

WEATHER: AM Clouds PM Sun, High: 90, Low 74

10:00 – Wake up call

11:00 – Go see Christ the Redeemer (Cristo Redentor)

“One of Rio's most identifiable landmarks, the magnificent 38m-high Cristo Redentor looms large atop Corcovado. From here, the statue - all 1145 tons of him - has stunning views over Rio (which explains the contented expression on his face). Corcovado, which means 'hunchback,' rises straight up from the city to a height of 710m, and at night, the brightly lit statue is visible from nearly every part of the city"

13:00 – Sugar Loaf (Pão de Açúcar)

“One of Rio's dazzling icons, Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf) offers a vision of Rio at its most disarming. Following a steep ascent up the mountain, you'll be rewarded with superb views of Rio's gorgeous shoreline, and the city planted among the green peaks. For prime views of the cidade maravilhosa, go around sunset on a clear day.”

15:00 – Lunch at Sushi Leblon

“Leblon's top sushi destination boasts a Zen like ambience with a handsome, dark wood sushi counter setting the stage for succulent cuisine. In addition to sashimi and sushi, you'll find grilled namorado (a type of perch) with passion fruit farofa, sea-urchin ceviche and refreshing sake to complement the meal.”

17:00 – Relax by hotel pool with some fruity cocktails

23:00 – Dinner at Quadrifoglio

“Considered by most locals to be the best Italian restaurant in the city, cozy Quadrifoglio is tucked away on a quiet street. The food and the service are impeccable; the restaurant has been around since 1991 and much of the original waitstaff still works there. Some favorite entrée choices are spinach ravioli and the fabulous salads. Leave room for desserts, which are what the place is most famous for.”

Eat in jardim botanicles,

24:00 – Get a drink at Saturnino

“Swanky martini bar in Jardim Botanico, filled with hip locals. Lots of variations on the caipirinha, so try them all.” (Rua Saturnino de Brito 50, Jardim Botanico)

1:00 – Go out to Lapa 40 Graus if we still have the energy!

“One of the best new places to open up recently in Lapa: 4 floors, each with different bands and DJs. The first floor has a butequim and pool hall, the second a lounge, the third another pool hall, the forth a large dance floor and stage with Rio´s top names in Samba and other sounds from Rio. Amazing! Lots of dancing. Come early and stay till the wee hours.” (Rua do Riachuelo 97, Lapa)

Day 3, Friday, November 20

WEATHER: Partly Cloudy, High 90, Low 75

10:00 – Wake up call

11:00 – Shopping in Ipanema

“Stroll down streets lined with fashionable boutiques, barter with vendors at street fairs, or wander through one of more than two-dozen air-conditioned malls. Good bets are leather, suede, jewelry, and cool summer clothing in natural fibers. Also look for coffee, art, and samba and bossa nova CDs. In Ipanema the main shopping artery is Rua Visconde de Piraja, but the cross-streets are as interesting as. Garcia D'Avila, for one, is the street to visit if you have an interest in jewelry - even if only to dream a little.”

13:00 – Lunch at Forneria Rio

“A perfect lunch destination for Ipanema shoppers. In the tastefully underdone, concrete-floored space, genial young staffers serve Italian standards both traditional (pizza alla Margherita) and adventurous (tramezzini with salmon tartare).”

(Rua Anibal de Mendonca 112

14:00 – Back to shopping!

23:00 – Dinner at 476

“At the end of a road with stunning coastal views, 476 is all about simplicity, with just seven delicious entrées that include moquecas (seafood stews), grilled seafood, and curries. It has only 20 tables, some in a lovely garden at water's edge. The quiet fishing village 13 km (8 mi) west of Barra da Tijuca is a nice respite from the bustling Zona Sul.” (Rua Barros de Alarcão 476)

1:00 – Go out at Clandestino

“Clandestino is an European style underground club: dark, dungeony and with a basement with a compact dance floor. What´s cool is that every Friday is Black Friday, which is when Brazilians and foreigners get down to hip-hop, brazilian funk and all other types of “black music”. Given most travellers have been confused about how to enjoy brazilian music, here you see them really enjoy and dance to music they know. A great place to meet a Brazilian or foreigner. International beers and mixed drinks.”

(Rua Barata Ribeiro 111, Copacabana)

Day 4, Saturday, November 21

WEATHER: Cloudy, High: 89, Low 75

10:00 - Wake up call

11:00 – Beach day @ Cococabana and Ipanema

13:00 – Get a snack at Mil Frutas

“On chic Rua Garcia D'Ávila (next door to Rio's only Louis Vuitton store), Mil Frutas serves tasty ice cream that showcases fruits from the Amazon and abroad. Jaca (jackfruit), lychee and açaí are among the several dozen varieties - all of which are best enjoyed on the tiny shade-covered patio out front.” (Rue Garcia D’Avila 134A)

18:00 – Grab some after beach drinks at Bar D’Hotel and watch the sunset

“The waves crashing on the shore are just part of the background of this texture-rich bar overlooking Ipanema beach. The narrow bar is like a magnet for the style set, who gather in the intimate space to enjoy tropical drinks to the backdrop of sea and ambient electronic music.”

23:00 – Dinner at Miam Miam

“Funky is hard to find in Rio de Janeiro, so Miam Miam has found the perfect niche to fill. This funky and hip eatery/lounge/bar is whimsically decorated with fabulous kitsch touches, without trying too hard. The result is a cozy room divided into a lounge area with comfortable couches and love seats and a somewhat more staid dining room. The lounge area is really the place to be, perfect for enjoying a cocktail and sharing some appetizers. The menu offers a range of high-end pub food: salads, sandwiches, pastas, risotto, and a few main courses such as a grilled tuna in a peppercorn crust or a steak with baked potato. If you are planning to eat a full meal you may want to opt for one of the Formica tables but make sure you grab that spot on the couch for dessert and an after-dinner drink.”

1:00 – Go out to either Zero Zero or Hard Rock

“You can spend all night at 00 and not get bored. Rio`s creme de la creme hit this flawlessly designed modern lounge, part outdoor (mingling area), part indoor (tables), with cutting edge contemporary cuisine (try the salmon burger) and a tiny dance floor that fits everyone. Try a cigar on the asian chaises outside under the stars.” (Av. Padre Leonel Franca 240, Gávea (Planetario)

“Hard Rock Cafe? Really? Really. Ok, so they are a world-wide chain, but they do know how to throw a party. Imagine a bunch of Brazilians, who are already festive, fervent with rock and roll in their veins. Plus, Brazil also has it´s own rock too, so you´ll get a great mix of American, British and Brazilian rock on Saturdays. What´s more, on Fridays, flashback night, you get a lot more singles than anywhere else in Rio, so, you know... you may make a Brazilian connection!”

(Shopping Città América - Av. das Américas, 700 - 3º andar - Barra da Tijuca)

Day 5, Sunday, November 22

WEATHER: Cloudy, High 88, Low 75

WEATHER: Cloudy, High 83, Low 76

10:00 – Wake up and leave for Bulzios (2.5 hour car ride)

13:00 – Arrive and check into Pousada Casas Brancas (http://www.casasbrancas.com.br/)

“Built into a hillside overlooking the water a five-minute walk from the center of town, the pousada is divided into several levels, providing common areas for mingling with other guests and secluded nooks for more private moments. Some of the rooms that face the sea have their own balconies, which vary from a large tiled porch to the smaller vine-covered ones. The landscaping and decorative touches at Casas Brancas set it apart from other pousadas: a turtle shell served as a sconce for the light outside the doors; palm trees, flowering bushes and potted plants give the small pool and nearby decks a tropical feel; and billowy white fabric form a canopy over the dining room, which was open on three sides to views of colorful boats bobbing in the sea below. That view was replaced by twinkling lights at night, against a soundtrack of Brazilian jazz coming from the bar -- the perfect setting for a round of caipirinhas, the drink of choice in Brazil, made from crushed lime, sugar and cachaça, a spirit distilled from sugar cane juice.”

14:00 – Ossos Beach

“This beach is easy to find if you know where to look for it. Near downtown, you can walk to it after having a refreshing lunch or morning cafe. Trees hang down over this Buzios beach and homes front the road that runs in front of it. A perfect place for a sunset picture as it faces due west, Ossos is bathed in fascinating history. Don't miss this highly recommended beach and take time to take in the peacefulness that now permeates the winding road that takes you past this beauty.”

15:00 – Lunch/snack at Cigalon

“This fabulous French restaurant is right on the waterfront along Rua das Pedras. Candlelight dancing off the water and crisp white tablecloths prepare you for the elegance of the food to come.”

21:00 – Dinner at Patio Havana

“By the same owners as the Estancia Don Juan, the Patio Havana offers not only a restaurant but also a cigar shop, bar, lounge, and wine bar. The specialty is seafood. The seafood pasta and grilled lobster in a butter-and-lemon sauce are outstanding. The menu includes many other options including seven different kinds of carpaccios, excellent salads (almost a meal in themselves), and tasty sandwiches. The kitchen also turns out some great steak dishes. Look for the Filet do Pastor, a tender steak stuffed with goat cheese and served with a Dijon mustard sauce. The lounge hosts live music, usually bossa nova, samba, blues, or jazz. Thursday is salsa night. The music with free dance lesson kicks off at 9:30pm.”

Day 6, Monday, November 23

WEATHER: Scattered Showers, High 85, Low 75

10:00 – Wake up call

11:00 – Breakfast at the hotel

12:00 – Geribá Beach

“Geribá beach is the main beach in Buzios. It is where locals and tourists hang out. The beach is a great place for sun bathing, sand fun, swimming and surfing. It is known for its large waves, which make it a surfer’s paradise. It is located on the south side of Buzios right on the Atlantic Ocean. There is always a crowd at this beach, but it never seems too crowded, so you can enjoy a day here without feeling overwhelmed by other people.”

21:00 – Dinner at Ponto Bar

“To simply sit, sip a drink, and check out the action, the place to be is Ponto Bar, which serves Japanese food accompanied by the sounds of long-in-the-tooth rockers such as the Rolling Stones and Eric Clapton.”

Day 7, Tuesday, November 24

WEATHER: Partly Cloudy, High 87, Low 75

10:00 – Wake up call

11:00 – Breakfast at the hotel

12:00 – Beach Cruise

“For about $8, you can take a cruise that visits many of the northern beaches, with stops for swimming and lunch. It is a good way to see many beaches and enjoy the views from offshore. The cruises typically include all the caipirinhas you can drink, water, fresh fruit and Guaraná, a sweet carbonated drink made from a fruit that grows in the Amazon (a deck hand circulates with trays of drinks practically nonstop).

17:00 – Massages at the hotel

“Experience Peace. To provide our guests with the utmost excellence in relaxation, Casas Brancas Spa offers a range of the world’s finest spa treatments. Spoil yourself, combat stress, and bring your mind, body and soul into balance.”

21:00 – Dinner at Satyricon

“This restaurant is situated next to the Rua das Pedras, in Orla Bardot, right in the center of Buzios. It serves excellent italian food and seafood. There is a good selection of starters and main dishes, from pastas and risoti to grilled meats, fish and seafood. Everything is very fresh here and really tasty.”

23:00 – Go out to Zapata

“Mexican bar and Disco.”

Day 8, Wednesday, November 25

WEATHER: Mostly Sunny, High 85, Low 76

10:00 – Wake up call

11:00 – Breakfast at the hotel

12:00 – Walk around in town and have lunch at Chez Brigitte

“The entrance to Chez Brigitte is through a small, well-hidden door, leading right into the action. This place captures what Búzios really is: charming, easy going and with a certain air of sophistication. The restaurant faces the ocean and is part of Brigitta's Guest House. Brigitta, the owner, is a charming Czech who speaks four languages, as advertised by the sign at the entrance. Grilled fish and seafood is their specialty, but they also sere sliced sirloin or sausages served with baked potato and sauces.”

14:30 – Ride back to Rio de Janeiro

20:55 – Take off from Rio De Janeiro International (Aerolineas Argentinas AR1257)

23:10 – Land in Buenos Aires, AEP